Tinos wind, sea, sun and soil in a bottle.
Jerome Charles Binda, the owner and winemaker of Domaine de Kalathas, tames Tinos' elements and shares insights on each one of his magnificent natural wines and pairs them with fresh myzithra, sea urchin shots, barbounia and lamp "paidakia" chops:
"The very ripe grapes of the warm 2015 vintage of Aspro Potamisi produced an original wine of smooth exotic aromas. The iodine finish and the puzzling bitterness add complexity and contribute to create an "umami" wine, a characteristic emphasized by what could be perceived as a real "memory of sugar", an impression of native sweetness conveyed by the sun-roasted, rich old-vine Potamisi, whose sugars were nonetheless almost totally reduced by its indigenous yeasts. Sometimes I sense aromas like fresh almond or sweet lemon, sometimes roasted pineapple or even lychee is what strikes me first. Personally, I enjoy this white wine with delicate grilled Barbounia fish, crayfish stew, Tarte Tatin (but with no cinnamon), or simple lamb Païdakia chops."
"Another expression of the traditional Tinos Aspro Potamisi, this time vinified through a whole-bunch maceration of selected grapes, this orange Notias evokes to me the southern winds - hence its name - that come across the Mediterranean all the way from Africa. Apart from associating immediately with spices and heat, it is the disturbing character of Sorocco wind, wild, untimely and violent yet distinctively part of our terroir, which comes to my mind.
Supportive but integrated alcohol, deep flavours of dried bitter orange, bergamot, dates, as well as a tannic hint make me like it with a sea urchin shot, a creamy burrata and oregano, an aged goat cheese, some dry bitter chocolate mousse."
"The somewhat chaotic 2016 vintage in terms of climate offered us, with the heatwaves and high wind episodes, a possibility to experiment fermenting highly but unevenly matured Potamisi and Rozaki grapes, finally blended in this cuvée. The one-year fermentation of the Potamisi developed profound aromas. Its mild acidity makes it seem sweeter but its very saline background contributes in building a very versatile wine that I can never dissociate from the sea which bathes the island. Now appeased, it displays a lengthy salty finish while inciting bold associations on the table. I personally pair this semi-sweet wine with Asian cuisine, such as curries, Thaï delicate and precise flavours, raw fish, and I especially like the way it behaves with all sort of chili-oriented cooking, and the way it enhances the flavours of hot condiments as well as the way it stands to the heat of wasabi, kimchi or even habanero."
"This experimental wine is made from an attempt to find out whether old Serine and Syrah from the granitic upper Cornas area in France would adapt to Kalathas terroir and develop specific characteristics. I think it does and is very promising. Like for all our wines I chose to work for now only with stainless steel (with also a few experiments in clay vessels) so there will be no wood screen in between the fruit and the glass. While reducing my tool palette, especially for the micro-oxygenation process, it works for me as a help to try and understand the varieties I'm working with, while trying to develop a different approach in dealing with oxygen all through the process of crafting non-added-sulphur wines.
The fruit and the freshness are particularly present here, given we are talking about very young vines. I felt I could associate here a little Mandilaria of ours which would add some crispiness and help fluidize the already dense, concentrated spiciness of Syrah.
I enjoy this wine with terrines, salumeria, beef bourguignon, or a garlic-grated slice of wholegrain bread spreaded with fresh myzithra and fresh olive oil."